November 6, 1917
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Called at 6 in order to catch the 8.20 from the Gare des Invalides but missing my friends there I thought that I was at the wrong place so wandered further on and eventually had to enlist the services of a taxi to return to where I had been before. This meant we missed the train so caught one at 9.20.
Whilst standing in the crowd a man in quite a matter of fact tone turned round and asked me for a match. One gets accustomed to these surprises in a foreign country after travelling, as Englishmen are found in every quarter of the Globe. The train, electric, took 35 minutes to do the 12 miles, but the country was not very interesting apart from seeing the wall of Paris and several aerodromes and aeroplane factories.
On reaching Versailles we walked to the Palace through the town of 54,000 inhabitants but very uninteresting in appearance. The Palace, the residence of the Court of France prior to the revolution is unique in France. In 1660 the building was commenced and was enlarged and extended by the succeeding kings. The site being most unsuitable to the project, a vast army of men were employed at tremendous cost. More than 30,000 men were employed at one time, and great lose of life was occasioned by sickness from the draining of the swamp.
The system of fountains and lakes called for such a large supply of water that the famous Machine de Marly was constructed in 1680 to conduct water from the Seine. The cost irrespective of unpaid labour has been computed at £14,880,000 in modern money. The building being closed we were unable to see the interior, so after viewing the exterior we passed into the Park or more accurately the Gardens of Versailles, the work of Le Notre 1613-1708, the master of gardening, who laid them out for Louis XIV.
The Gardens are divided into many symmetrical parts each having its own particular features. Fountains of various designs abound and statues and buildings each with its own history are scattered over the Park. Looking down from the Terrace one gazes over the Park, the limits of which cannot be seen. The Tapis Vert or green carpet (a long lawn) stretches down from the Chateau to the fountain of Chard Apollon, then commences the Grand Canal, over a mile long and 57 yards wide.
On either side, paths lead in all directions with mathematical precision.The Trianons, Grand and Petit, the latter the favourite resort of Marie Antoinette, being laid out in English fashion are more private than the remainder and a village constructed for the Queen consisting of the Mill Boudoir, Tower, Dairy, etc. all thatched dwellings are extremely picturesque. In the time we had available it was impossible to explore it to any extent, one could only marvel at the great mind which conceived and carried out such a tremendous project.
Autumn and War of course meant that the place was almost deserted,but it lent a particular beauty of its own, the autumnal colour and fallingleaves being very pretty. Leaving here in time to catch the 12.30 train wehad lunch at Duval’s in the Boulevard. St. Germain, a very decent meal.Leaving the girls we crossed the Seine to the old city, actually an islandin the Seine, in order to complete our tour of the day before.
First we saw the Saint Chapelle Church, a beautiful chapel surrounded by the Palais de Justice. Commenced in 1245 by St. Louis it consists of an upper and lower chapel and was built to contain the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the Real Cross obtained from the Emperor of Constantinople. The principal feature consists of the stained glass windows, which are the most complete example of the work of the latter part of the 13th Century, and are extremely beautiful. Each of the windows is a dazzling jewel, the large rose, which dates from Charles VIII. being divided into 79 panes, the whole having a glorious effect.
We bought postcards, etc. before leaving. Next we strolled through the Palais de Justice into some of the Law Courts, but it being the meal hour, the Court was adjourned. The Notre Dame then claimed our attention as we had not seen the interior the day before. On entering we saw before us a man sitting at a table holding a brush. His job was to dip the brush into Holy water and touch the hand of those coming in. We perforce had to collect our sample.
So many people coming in means that several Holy water fonts are provided and at times one sees one person dipping their hand in and touching the hand with it of their friends or those nearby. The building,which was completed in the 13th Century is considered one of the finest in France. Its length is 415 ft. and 150 ft. wide whilst its towers reach 220 feet. The ball on the steeple, which supports the Cross contains fragments of the real Cross and of the Crown of Thorns. The stained glass windows are particularly beautiful, especially the three Roses, one of which is over 40 ft. in diameter.
Inquiring our way we next came to the Church of St. Sulpice and just about here my pal received a shock. I had primed him up on how to ask the way and he bravely went up to a taxi driver and delivered forth theoration. After listening respectfully for a few minutes, he said “Oh, you want a Church” and directed him. He could not decide whether to feel proud of his effort or kick himself for not speaking in English which the man spoke perfectly. The Church was very fine, built in 1645, the organ being considered one of the finest in existence, and the Holy water font being presented by the Republic of Venice to Francois I.
Leaving here, by chance we came to the Museum of the Palais du Luxembourg. On entering the main hall we were struck by the beauty of the many statues in white marble chiefly and spent some time examining them. Other rooms contained paintings representing different schools, English being amongst the number and before leaving purchased postcards of some of the best to send home. One wonderful statue of a women modelled apparently from one piece showed the feet, head and bust, of white marble the head gear of cream-colored marble and the dress a variegated marble, a wonderful chance piece of stone which allowed for such treatment.
Returning to the Boulevarde St. Germain past the Church of St.Germain des Pres, we took a taxi to the Opera Comique, where I booked seats for the evening performance of La Tosca. This was rather a difficult performance as my French is very poor. However, I examined the plan and then joined the throng waiting for tickets, When my turn came I first asked if she could speak English. “No.” was the answer, so then I started off as well as I could and asked for 4 seats.
She “got me” 3 but did not have 4, only 6 together and asked me if I objected to a French officer and his wife taking the other two. “Right-o”said I and paid for the six after which I collected the French officer’s share and arranged at what time I would be there. When this was done an interpreter appeared on the scene but we had managed to arrange everything satisfactorily without his aid.
By taxi then to the Knickerbocker Bar, a Yankee resort of some repute, but hardly a Sunday school, and proceeded by the same car to V.H.Smith & Son’s English shop in the Rue Rivole where I purchased books of views of Paris, postcards, etc. which I had posted home direct. If all my purchases in this line reach home they will have to remove to larger premises.
Returning to the Hotel we had dinner and then met our friends in the vestibule of the theatre. The piece, La Tosca, of course in French, was very good but at times it was an effort to keep awake as we had had a strenuous time with very little sleep, several times I had to dig my pal in the ribs. I thought the audience much like our own until some particularly good singing called for extra applause and as well as clapping, the women present started calling out, it sounded like a lot of hysterical girls crying.
I understand they always show their appreciation in this way, the opposite effect being gained by whistling, this showing great contempt for the actors and playing. Some Americans I believe who often show approval by whistling were much misunderstood one evening. After the show we saw the girls to the Metro Station and walked to our Hotel and turned in content with the day and dead tired.